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January travels

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We left the blog a month ago, at our office annual feast. A few days later I was off to New York, and Charlie back up to Rousay. I was there for a brief evening, passing on my way down to Charlottesville. There is always time for a walk at sunset...

1. New York & Charlottesville

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Before an early night and an early start the next morning. I was staying at beautiful Farmington, designed by Thomas Jefferson...

2. Classical Virginia.

Two lovely days of speaking events, and then I was scooped up by my friends Kinsey, and Spencer (plus Austin, on his way back from Europe).  First stop lunch.

Kinsey Marable's beautiful house - classic Virginia. So perfect.  Kinsey is probably the best book dealer in the world if you are looking for classic books on architecture, gardens, decoration and making a library.

Such a wonderful spot.

And here is Austin and Spenny's beautiful little cottage, perfection for the next couple of days.

We had the best tours.

Spenny's fridge magnet collection is impressive.

Lunch pit stop...

On our way to beautiful Tuckahoe, one of the most untouched and historic houses I've been in, in America.

Wilton, Richmond, in the pouring rain... so beautiful.

And the next day, sunshine at UVA, Jefferson's amazing buildings sparkling in the snow.

I love the student rooms, each with their stack of logs (the only heating).

3. Chicago (briefly)

It was a short time at UVA.  I was then off to Chicago - which was bitterly cold but amazing, bright and clear... sunset...

And sunrise.

I was speaking at the Women's Athletics Club - the height of chic.  I want more gloss black walls in our lives I think.

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4. New York again!

How much I love Chicago - but then, back to New York.

I was there for two days with the Winter Show.  But still enjoyed plenty of time downtown.

That evening we had an amazing tour of the Frick, with one of my very kind clients from London.

Amazing to see these beautiful rooms, empty (and to be allowed to take photographs).

The brilliant renovations by Annabelle Seldorf.

I love that I always find the cleaning trolley.

Charlie arrived two days later and we were speeding on our way up to Ghent, to stay with Valentina and Vito.

The countryside was covered in a thick coat of snow...  here is their beautiful farm.

The local book barn. Complete heaven.

And then we went to the brilliant Rockwell Museum. I've always loved his work so much, but what a treat to be able to see it all up close, taking in each brushstroke. Pure genius.

All the covers of the Saturday Evening Post...

Thanksgiving.

Astonishing details, hard to believe this is painted in oil.

New Kids in the Neighbourhood, 1967.  So powerful.

The Peace Corps.

The central rotunda displays the famous Four Freedoms:

Freedom of Thought,

Freedom from Want,

Freedom from Fear,

And Freedom of Speech.

The museum is incredibly moving. I'm often asked what I think of American politics and why I don't write about it in this blog, or on Instagram.  For those that haven't noticed, this is not a political blog, nor is my instagram.  But all I could say is that a visit to the Rockwell Museum told me a lot about what I love about the great country of America.  We would do well to send every world leader to this small gallery for a morning.

We were meant to stay for the weekend - but the blizzard was forecast and it looked as if the trains back to New York would all be cancelled, so knowing that we'll be back, we had an early supper at Lil' Debs and then took the last evening train back into the city.

The next morning we woke to the blizzard.

Our friends Wilfred and Will were meeting us for lunch at Odeon and we had a wonderful walk through snowy Chinatown.

It was really snowing.

Lunch turned into dinner.  And then the next morning was bright and clear.

And the next....

Charlie and I had one last date with our friends Frances and Wally.

We walked over and were a bit early for lunch so went to the Hudson - amazing to see it frozen over.

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5. London

And then home. The next morning, Charlie was up to Orkney to be reunited with the dogs. I had a few days down in London. That weekend it felt like Bloomsbury was austere and strangely deserted.

6. Rousay

But magical to be back in London.  A few days later it was even MORE magical to be home.

Amazing sunshine and rain. The little road that forms our daily walk was almost purple. 

Misty and wet the next day, but still beautiful in a different way. Every light is amazing, really.

The evenings are lighter now.

Veg garden tidy for winter.

Silvery seas and skies.

Snowdrops are out in the woods.

The house gleamed in the sunshine. What do you notice? At last, we've got rid of the old Air to Air Heat Pump that was such an eyesore on the front of the house.  Hopefully we'll be starting our building works sooner rather than later now.

Much better.

(For those that missed earlier blogs, we are painting the house white. It's just going to be right!).

7. Paris

But then I was away again. I'd been invited on a rather amazing (work!) trip to Paris. To the opera - Eugene Onegin.   A wonderful Thursday evening.

I have never been to the Opera Garnier. It was extraordinary.  Pure spectacle.

My favourite bit was the mosaic ceilings...

And the mosaic floors...

And these quieter areas.  Beautiful.  Somehow the rest is too much for me.

A superb production, with such beautiful costumes (you get a hint here) that some of these images will be with me for a long time to come.

Walking back to our hotel, in the small hours of the morning, over the placid Seine.

Our little gang was back at the Opera the next morning. We had an incredible guided tour of the building.

Far below ground....

The original scene changing mechanics - five floors below the stage - preserved for posterity.

These would have been operated by huge teams - of sailors, as it happened - spinning the sets up and down through the vast building.

A note for Valentine's Day on one of the walls of the tunnels deep underground.

Incredible; like walking around a Piranesi prison.

We emerged out of this door back into the public rooms.

So many good signs.

More signs.

The sun lobby....

The moon lobby.

And then we were gone. An inspirational day.

Lunch - more signs in passing... and we were back to London on the train.  All on time.

8. Chichester

The next morning I was up bright and early, heading down to Chichester.  I have been wanting to see the Nicholson exhibition at Pallant House and had the perfect excuse.

Such a wonderful show.

I found myself first in the gallery, always a nice feeling.

Alone with these treasures.

I love Pallant House, both the ancient old house and the new gallery. The perfect small gallery, with an astounding collection.

My actual mission that day was to visit a glass house expert, tucked away in the most wonderful little workshop in the middle of nowhere.

We were discussing the world of Mackenzie and Moncur, the great Scottish Victorian glasshouse manufacturers....

Providing inspiration for Charlie's new greenhouse as Westness that we are beginning to plan.  Exciting times ahead!  And that is where we end.

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17 comments

Never mind me! I just read your other blog post that explains all about the unpainted render. As you were.

Amanda

Are you painting unpainted render? Or is it already painted?

Amanda

Wow, this was fantastic! Thank you sharing ALL of your travels. I love it.

Patricia

Thank you Ben. Fascinating blog.

Peter Sullivan

I’m wondering if you changed the way you post your photographs as I’m no longer able to get them on my computer. I do get the words and the ads for merchandise. This all started with the Jan 12th post. I can read and see them on my phone but not computer. I miss all those beautiful photographs.

Ann Collins

I enjoyed that so much I was sorry it ended. Very excited to see Charlie’s greenhouse when it eventually materialises.

Kim Andrews

Wowza what a life you lead. Thanks for taking us along for the ride. We are all excited for your Rousay renovations however I do hope you keep those wonderfully wall papered ceilings!

Becky

Ben your energy, stamina are inspiring. I especially love the images that you took of the NYC snowstorm. They were magical and the detail was fantastic. do you use an iphone or a real camera for all your trips?
Sally

Sally Pitfield

Cannot wait to see Charlie’s new glasshouse!!—am sure it will be sublime and he certainly deserves it after years of impeccable plantsmanship (a word?…if not should be). Once again glorious photography which transported me to places I will never go to in person. Thank you:).

Laura Harrison

Goodness, that was a roller coaster of weather and beauty! So many architectural gems and such a visual feast. Always lovely to see your blog. Greetings from a rather stormy (supposedly summery) New Zealand!

Jennifer Phillipps

Thank you for sharing your magnificent pictures, you certainly travel far and wide. But I must say, I am really excited to read about Charlie’s new glasshouse, that is going to be an amazing project. The flowers and vegetables he will grow will be so wonderful, I think the summer flower show see a new name with Best of Show on the prize ticket!

Nicholas

This was a long and thrilling journey illustrated with gloriously inspiring photos. Thanks so much.

Leana Pooley

As usual your photos and accompanying travelogue are sublime. As always I would encourage you to one day publish these,as they would get a warm reception.
As for politics- well you may not be interested in politics but politics are interested in you! Your warm remarks & faith in the US are appreciated,we need the encouragement as these are dark times. Ironic that the 1967 Rockwell painting of integration that you featured speaks to the kind of nation the US aspires to be and how far we’ve come and how quickly we are regressing. Sobering times but I’m happy you were able to spend some quality time with your friends stateside.

Mike

Ben,
Thank you for sharing your photographs of the places you see.
Your photographs of architecture, interiors and landscapes are fantastic! You have a creative eye for composing images and picking out the finer details depicted in your photographs. May i ask what camera you use to take photo’s for your blog – i am thinking your camera has a very incredibly sharp lens. I have been meaning to ask you for a while – Thank You.

Deborah AYERS

Hmmm, your pics of NYC in the snow look partially painted by Norman Rockwell. Just me seeing it?

How we live is deeply political. How you live speaks volumes about your politics, Godspeed this gift. Given to each.

Poyeema

What a super interesting post – how do you fit everything in ? I particularly liked the section about the Rockwell Museum. I didn’t know it existed , but I agree with you that his work is such an evocative reflection of a period of American life. Plus the fact that his creative skills were just endless. Thank you. T x

Tony Hutchinson

Have you seen the glorious Italian glasshouse in Ramsgate. It has petal shaped panes of glass so that they don’t break from ice forming as rain drips down the centre so doesn’t get caught on the straight edge.

Katrina Quinton

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