The blog this week starts in the mountains... where we went for a few short days, with friends. Always so beautiful.

Here we are, about to make our way down the mountain at the end of the holiday.... wondering at the sublime view that greeted us that morning.

1. N E W Y O R K
Two days later, Charlie was back up to Rousay and I was off to New York. I was there for a short afternoon.... A usual walk through Chinatown and downtown, the city gleaming in the spring sunshine....

Such a beautiful afternoon.

St. Patrick's Day festivities were well underway!

I gently made my way down to Battery Park and the beautiful view over to The Statue of Liberty.

I loved seeing the city farm in the Park, ready to start growing.

Walking back up Broadway.

Such a chic art deco lobby....

I wasn't any the wiser as to who owned the construction site at 32-34 Broadway.
The city gleamed in the sunshine.

I met our friend Wilfred for supper at the Nom Wah Tea Parlour...

2. C H A R L E S T O N
And an early night, and then I was off bright and early the following morning to beautiful Charleston, South Carolina. Sam, from the office, and I, were there to help on 'Project 3500' - Major William Cogswell's brilliant and ambitious project to deliver 3500 new affordable homes within the City in the next 7 years. Partly because of our experience in Poundbury and elsewhere, where we try to deliver affordable houses that don't look terrible, we had some skills to offer the brilliant team assembled.
Our first day started early with a tour of old Charleston, and many inspirational streets which we will be drawing lessons from for the new developments. Then we visited (in the pouring rain) the many sites that have been identified by the urban designers leading the project which can take new development, ranging from enormous parking lots to areas of very low density and aging housing stock, which is in urgent need of replacement.

Familiarisation complete, we set to in the studio for the next two days. On the Wednesday evening, in glorious sunshine, there was a public meeting to look at work in progress.

The market hall, possibly my favourite building in the whole city, gleaming in the sunshine the next morning.

We carried on that day, but in the afternoon had a visit to the new town of I'On, with the legendary developer Vince Graham. His work here is nothing short of extraordinary. It's hard to believe that this is a brand new place, and that 25 years ago there was nothing here at all. These streets are all new - new houses, and an entirely new landscape. I was jealous how fast the live oaks grow!

There are two large lakes, joined by these brilliant canals.

It was a remarkable visit, to see Vince's town, and the plan by DPZ. I was last here when it was just starting. I was blown away by how well it was all done - although, of course, I'On doesn't have the mixed income housing that Vince had planned for, because - can you believe it - local politicians voted to prevent him doing that. A different era.
Back in Charleston that evening, I went for a walk just for ten minutes to catch the beautiful light.

What a magical city - so instructive today. Of course, I'm aware of the darker sides of Charleston's history as well, but from an architectural and masterplanning perspective, it is nothing short of superb.
Here was our little studio, in the heart of the city, lights on through the night!

The following morning, early, I did another quick walk around some favourite streets....

And then after four days I was off. This was some of what we'd been up to!

Sam and I, happy but tired!

3. C H I C A G O
I was up to Chicago, for the annual gathering of the Driehaus Prize at the University of Notre Dame. We started that evening in the extraordinary Driehaus Mansion. I'd never been in. It's an amazing building - reminiscent in some ways of Leighton House in London - a bit like the American cousin.

Some of the rooms were too crazy for me.

But other moments are sublime.

And the details are just extraordinary. Built as a family house in the late 19th century, the building was saved and restored by Richard Driehaus who was so generous in his support of historical architectural preservation - and also set up the architectural prize that bears his name.

The following day, after the ceremony, I had a lovely walk in the balmy afternoon sunshine, a warm breeze blowing, the sun hot on our faces. Chicago glowed.


Today, I had a wonderful vist to the Art Institute, which has so many treasures to reveal.... Charlie and I went two years ago and there were just so many rooms we didn't even go near then. So, lovely to be back.

A feast for the eyes and the mind.
Then I jumped in a taxi to head out to Hyde Park, to visit Frank Lloyd Wright's Robie House. I'd been twenty years ago and wanted to go back. The temperature had plummeted by the time I got there. It was so strange seeing the cacophony of late 19th and early 20th century houses on the streets around - you realise how amazingly revolutionary Wright's work really was.

Here's the view looking the other way.

So many beautiful details.

The front door.

Inside, the house feels more arts and crafts, and more attuned to its date (1908-10) than the amazingly forceful exterior.

Beautiful light fittings, designed by Wright with his trademark circle and square.... used in many of his houses, but the pierced metal panels which make amazing shadows on the ceiling were then custom-designed for each individual house.

Clever!

Arriving upstairs...

Concealed lighting within the ceiling.

The living space leading to the dining space.

The Japanese influence is so clear.

I loved the pantry. Here, and in the kitchen and bathrooms, you feel more in the world of Old Edwardian design. Hard to believe this house was built at the same time as Lutyens's essays in English Vernacular. Change was brewing in Chicago.

Mrs Robie's dressing room.

And Mr Robie's.

The bathroom.

The stairs.

And the kitchen...

The maid's bathroom. Quite amazing.

We had a brilliant tour. I was part of a tiny group of four of us who braved the freezing cold for the excellent but rather lengthy discussion of the outside of Wright's house. We were glad to move inside to the enveloping warmth of the interior. It was fascinating to be back. I loved it.
I'm on my way home tonight. It's been a brilliant trip but I am very, very happy to be home in the morning, by which time, I think, you may be reading this blog. Rousay at the weekend. I can't wait.
Let us pray for peace.















19 comments
I live in Chicago. Thanks for the beautiful pictures of my city.
I always appreciate your New York pictures. I lived there 1989-2005: West Village, Financial District, then back to the gayborhood in Chelsea. I couldn’t imagine being anywhere else…until September 11, which started my several-years-long goodbye. I’ve lived elsewhere since then—South Florida, Chicago (love those pictures too!), and now Upstate New York—but Manhattan, specifically, is a different animal. I don’t miss it exactly (as you know all too well: there is life after NYC), but I do recognize and celebrate its uniqueness and what an important time in my life it was. I feel fortunate to have spent so much time there, and your pictures—with an eye I appreciate and (if I may be so bold) share (in an overlapping sort of way?)—bring me back instantaneously.
Ben, maybe one of the BEST ever stateside photo album .. I want to say how grateful I feel, it is soo beautiful and evocative that for a moment I could forget all the mayhem the US unfortunately represent now.. thank you, for always,always pursuing Beauty, and Peace.
Love! Nom Wah Tea Parlour!
Thank you! for always sharing your good taste architectural heart eyes, dear Ben. I wait for each “chapter” being nourished on all you dish up, always things that matter, that make my heart go pitter pat. Is like cake with frosting when you show inside Westness and the furr Girlz!
Beautiful photos. I have been to NY and Chicago a few times, but never Charleston and I am fascinated by their architect of their homes, so beautiful. Can’t wait to see Charlie’s garden blooming and Easter at your home, we usually are blessed with to see.
What a treat to see the email this evening and spend time in Scotland, Charleston, NYC, Chicago … all places I have been at various times… some shorter than others – and at the end of a corker of a work day Monday … 10 pm and still working. Your photos and travels provided a need respite. Safe travels home (hopefully not thru LaGuardia – G*d rest their souls)
Wowza, what an amazing armchair journey with you to see such gorgeous architectural gems. Charleston has such a look and feel to it, as though time has stood still. Then Chicago, all I could think of was Frank Sinatra singing: “Chicago, Chicago, that toddling town
Chicago, Chicago, I will show you around, I love it
Bet your bottom dollar you’ll lose the blues in Chicago, Chicago
The town that Billy Sunday could not shut down.”
Then the one and only other Frank, of the Lloyd Wright variety. I have been a fan for a very long time. His interiors are so spectacular.
Thanks as always for letting us travel along with you. Greetings from a slightly autumnal New Zealand.
What a great travelogue – how do you find the time when all your trips seem so intensive? And your photographic record is always so brilliant. Charleston – old and new – looks amazing. I LOVED the loose style of the architectural drawings of the new build proposals. And I wasn’t aware of your Poundbury connection. That makes such great sense. What perfect fit ! Thank you for taking the time to make such clever, informative, interesting and beautiful records of your journeys .
The photos I see on your reviews are the best. I am a American who has lived in England and Holland for over 30 years. I lived and worked downtown Chicago and recognize many angles and streets. I lived in Charleston from 2016-2023 and worked downtown Charleston and again, recognize many lovely streets that I walked so many times. Though, you missed Colonial Lake, but hope you had a lovely walk around that. Thank you for your wonderful photos and helping Charleston get some new housing, I just hope your plans for larger buildings are not over 8 floors high.
Some may say the new development pastiche however, I so wish local planning departments in the UK would take note. Instead of the totally uninspired, bland and obscene buildings being erected, our environment could be so beautiful, inspiring, somewhere joyful to live. Ben, ask King Charles to put you in charge of environmental development in England, you’re got my vote.
Kind regards Nicholas.
Indeed, one of the best & most inspiring blog entries. Prayers for peace.
Such great photos and thanks for those of the Robie House. It’s one of the few places I’ve actually been of all you share with us.
I hope you got to see some of UChicago’s campus when you visited Robie House!
Such stunning photographs Ben. I felt I was walking around the streets. Some fabulous architecture of all eras.
Next time you are in Chicago, I highly recommend a tour of HH Richardson’s fortresslike Glessner House – which also hides a warm domestic interior.
The architecture in Charleston is incredible as are your beautiful photographs and the FLW house, sublime. Thank you and safe travels.
What a fascinating read this was, complemented by your beautiful photography – the Robie House in particular – so many reasons to visit Chicago!
I think this has to be one of the best newsletters – what an unbelievable range and your are a tremendous photographer! I enjoy these images immensely. So inspiring. Many thanks!